Song Zhixue makes Xiabu, literally meaning summer cloth, in Wanzai county, Yichun city, east China's Jiangxi Province. (Photo/Zhou Liang)
Xiabu, a traditional Chinese handicraft literally meaning summer cloth, has a history of over 1,600 years in Wanzai county, Yichun city, east China's Jiangxi Province.
Song Shuya, 80, is a national-level inheritor of Wanzai Xiabu weaving craft in Jiangxi. His family has practiced the art for generations.
Woven by hand from ramie fiber, Xiabu is breathable, moisture-wicking, and naturally antibacterial. It was widely used in ancient times during the summer months, hence the name "summer cloth."
Among all the intricate steps, the most patience-testing step is spinning the yarn—joining ramie strands into one long, knot-free thread, according to Song Shuya.
"Since naturally treated yarn breaks easily, this step must be done entirely by hand. One person can spend nearly two months spinning enough yarn for just one bolt of cloth," he explained.
Song Zhixue makes Xiabu, literally meaning summer cloth, in Wanzai county, Yichun city, east China's Jiangxi Province. (Photo/Zhou Liang)
In 1998, Song Shuya founded the Shuangzhi Xiabu Factory in Wanzai county. Thanks to strict quality standards, his cloth quickly gained recognition not only in China but also abroad.
"Xiabu is a great material, but not many people buy it anymore," he said. As modern textiles dominate the market, Xiabu has faded from public view. While many peers moved on, Song Shuya stayed with the craft, passing it down to his son, Song Zhixue.
"I didn't think much about the market when I was young—I just wanted to take the craft from my father's hands and keep it going," said Song Zhixue, who grew up to the rhythm of looms. With over 30 years of experience now, he understands the lifelong dedication woven into every strand.
"Handcrafting is the essence of Xiabu, and also its biggest hurdle," Song Zhixue said. "Machine spinning requires boiling ramie down to pure fiber, which strips away the valuable natural glue," he explained.
Song Zhixue weaves Xiabu, literally meaning summer cloth, in Wanzai county, Yichun city, east China's Jiangxi Province. (Photo/Zhou Liang)
This reliance on manual work makes Xiabu low-yield and costly. To address this, Song Zhixue has teamed up with universities to refine the process. "We're working to preserve the fabric's natural texture and antibacterial benefits while improving efficiency and scalability."
To promote Xiabu, Song Zhixue has tried new approaches. He has integrated Yunnan's tie-dye techniques into Xiabu products and designed over 200 cultural items including shoes, bags, hats, fans, tea mats, and curtains. In 2023, Song Zhixue and his father opened the Xiabu Cultural Center, which features a hands-on weaving area for visitors to experience the charm of this intangible heritage firsthand.
Song Zhixue airs Xiabu, literally meaning summer cloth, in Wanzai county, Yichun city, east China's Jiangxi Province. (Photo/Zhou Liang)
