Blue hot spring pool [Photo:CRIENGLISH.com]

Feng Shan has been a mainstay of the Beijing hot spring scene since its inception in 2001. Two levels of indoor pools create the illusion of an expansive tropical rainforest. A bit of true greenery is nestled into the plastic forest (the occasional banana can be picked), and fountains are scattered among the 50 pools of mineral water. The shadows of the faux cave are where the medicinal waters are found, each containing a floating bag of Chinese herbs. Even traditional Chinese board game tables await challengers in their own pool of steaming water.

Children may prefer to frolic among the water-spouting statues, but the peaceful spa experience is to be found outside. Most of the 18 outdoor pools are cozily nestled into the side of the hill where views of the surrounding mountains can be lazily appreciated. The pools themselves are artfully designed and filled with tinted waters. (Staffers say there are herbs in the water, but which herbs are colored electric blue?) A cold pool and hot stone beds are also available, although the beds were tepid at best when I was there.

The enormity of the spa makes it easy to while away long hours, but if you tire of the springs, there's plenty of opportunities to take a break. There's a cafeteria offering complimentary milk tea, cakes and cookies. Upstairs dozens of people can be found napping or watching TV in what should be a foot massage area. The adjacent movie theater also screens Chinese and western titles. If you want to burn a few calories, the exercise facilities here are better than the ones at most other hot spring spas. The swimming pool could possibly be Olympic size, and it is bordered by a collection of shiny exercise machines.

Steamy and dreamy: Feng Shan is the clear choice for anyone diagnosed with ADD. The vast indoor environment seems to have a surprise around every corner, be it fresh flower petals floating in a series of pools or a shower of hot rain drizzling bathers below.

The cold reality: A distant 50 kilometers from the heart of Beijing, Feng Shan is not the most conveniently located hot spring. The reverberating sounds of water, people and music in its indoor area make enjoying a peaceful experience difficult. Also, regardless of each pool's posted temperature, many of the outdoor pools were more warm than hot. Infrared saunas have been added as an afterthought, but their style and placement are not inviting. The small amount of information in English isn't particularly informative and is limited mostly to poetic names like Red Crown Crane Pool. Finally, Feng Shan's ticket price is definitely higher than those of any of the reviewed competitors.

Basic ticket price: 268 RMB

Address: 10 Mangshan Lu, Changping district

Chinese address: 昌平区蟒山路10号

Tel: 6071 1188

Directions: From Jishuitan station, take bus 888 to the final stop.